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Fancy Shape Diamonds: The Emerald Cut





This emerald cut diamond, a 100.20 carat D-flawless diamond, sold for a whopping $22.1 on April 21st at Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels Event in New York.



The original rough weighed 200 carats - so nearly half of the original weight was sacrificed in order to yield the flawless gem.  The cutting and polishing of the diamond took more than a year to complete.






The diamond is an amazing (and huge!) example of an emerald cut diamond.  The emerald cut is not a brilliant cut but is called a step cut, which means that it has rows of facets.  Step cuts are comprised of larger facets which act like mirrors and resemble a staircase, hence the name step cut.  Originally developed for emeralds, the cut was later adapted to diamonds.


The emerald cut's four longer sides have beveled corners with two, three or four concentric rows of facets, parallel to the girdle, on the crown and pavilion.  Because of the angle, size and shape of the facets, the emerald cut shows less brilliance and fire (dispersion) than brilliant cut diamonds.  As a result of its step cut and parallel faceting structure, emerald cuts don't bend or reflect light as well as round brilliant cut diamonds.

The scintillation pattern of an emerald cut diamond differs from those found in brilliant cutting styles like rounds or ovals.  Instead of having tiny sparks of light emitting from the facets, emerald cuts flash "on" and "off" due to the step faceting structure.

Since lots of scintillation masks inferior color, the emerald cuts facet pattern with its lower scintillation emphasizes inferior color.  The long step cuts also mean inclusions become more obvious in lower clarity emerald cut diamonds.

Having a huge table facet is like having a big open window which enables you to peer deep into the diamond's body.  This means that any inclusions, flaws or color nuances are easily visible.  Because of the open and large facets, when selecting an emerald cut diamond you should consider the highest color and clarity within your budget.  When working with budget constraints, it is best to choose a smaller size diamond rather than sacrifice quality.

An emerald cut has a classic, understated beauty.  The long lines lend an elegant and sophisticated touch to both the simplest and most complex settings.

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